Good advice, cheers! I like the idea with the holey tube – clever little bit of engineering that.
I’ve got the actuator rod quite tight already, but there are still threads to go so will give that a few more turns in the morning. For a bleed valve it’s currently rocking one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-MANUAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-NOT-BLEED-VALVE-/220537042109?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33590834bd so will give it a twist until 8psi is the base-line boost and not the spike. Also found a weird lean state when barely on the throttle, say holding 30mph on the flat in 4th. AFM reports 16-17+:1 AFR
CO pot is currently on max resistance (1.8Kohm) which gives the leanest mixture. ~550ohms makes the idle bog down badly with too much fuel. I confirmed the idle switch again today before setting out. The switch itself is working as it should so far as I can tell (normally open, closed on idle?). Checked with the engine running. I should have thought and also checked the loom to the ECU though. Will give that a check too.
I’ll keep playing with the setup but am mindful that once it’s proven to be capable at 15psi a PPP remap/tweak will be worth every penny.
Journey went well! Exhaust needs a bit more clearance on the CAT brace bar though, or just sack the brace off completely. Bit of knocking on hard acceleration. Not sure if it’s required or not? Only event was the oil getting uncomfortably hot (~105*C). My own lazy fault for not cutting a hole in the bumper for the oil cooler yet. Stopped at a garage and bought a lighter, used it to heat up a knife (away from the petrol pumps) and cut the foglight hole out. Pikey all the way but worked a treat – oil temps were a steady 90* after that. I’ve left a sheet of cardboard under the engine bay to catch and locate any leaks overnight.
Thanks again for your support and insight again Andy. Very much appreciated.