K03 setup help

[Doc J]

OK, from where ot begin...

My G40 made me sooooo mad, when an oil leak appears 10k afer service the compressor. The G40 unit blows too much oil to the drossel clamp (a half litre for 250 km. was gone through the exhaust, whe worst diesel can't make that smoke). I thinked about Eaton M45 before, but when I thinked "People goes to turbo and they haven't so much problems. They even acheave more power." So, I've bought a K03. At the begining I'm planing just to install it and run on standart cam, injectors and 0.7 bar (I think stock Digifant can handle this with no danger, I know it's not the best efficiency, but the missing money...). And I'm planning a custom exhaust manifold with same almost lenght runners, a downpipe on F60mm.

I think it's good to now. 

But I've a question about the wather cooling of the turbo: Is it necessary or I can ignore it without some danger about the turbine unit? If it's necessary can I get some advice how to install it, from where to get water and where the water must go after the turbine?

And the next question is about the oil support. I think to get oil from the standart place on the engine for G40 oil support, but is the stock oil lines good for K03?

I'm sorry if somewhere are writing-mistakes, but I'm not sure about some words how to write on english. 

[Tommo]

The water cooled bearing housings are mainly to prevent damage from hot shutdowns, and it isnt strictly neccesary. But Personally if it was possible I would rig it up.

As for the equal length manifold, it is a bit pointless really. The benefit is neglegable because there is little scavenge effect to gain. When you weigh up that against the fact that you will end up with longer tubes overall (reducing efficiency) and consider the fact that it will be taking up more room and increasing your underbonnet temps (possibly transfering heat into intake pipework etc) then you could argue that it is actually a disadvantage having an equal length manifold. Not to mention the extra effort to make it. But it is certainly not required to achieve more power if thats what you were aiming for.

[Doc J]

OK, after so much reading this day about the iron and it's alloys I found how to make the wather setup.

And about the manifold: 10x so much about your post. that gives me and idea about "how to make it equal-look, but not to get some space". I think I was lookin' before one similar in the german e-bay.

10x again.

Now I've got to read about how ot make the oil lines and is the stock good.

[Yoof]

Use the water lines, they're designed like that for a reason  Will put more energy (heat) into the cooling system, rather than the oil. Will also keep the turbo cooler which subsequently lowers your compressor outlet temps.

For the sake of a few bits of pipe, and two banjos, you'd be a fool not to.

Equal length manifold isn't of use with a K03 turbo on a G40 engine- cheaper and more robust cast log manifold will be more than adequate (and good for 200bhp+)

The standard location for oil feed (G-Lader feed originally) will be fine, but the return you must block off (fine pitch thread IIRC) and weld a fitting onto the sump for an oil return, the stock 20v return is 25mm (ish) which is plenty.

I'd also install 250cc injectors and get a decent turbo chip- don't rely on the MAP sensor and your current fuel/ignition values to work out what's going on!

Hope this helps,

Peter

[VW_rae]

would g60 injectors run it ok reguarding the fueling?

[Yoof]

Depends on your map 

[Vizor]

i need exhaust manifold flange to head vectorized
someone?

[Doc J]

May be You mean "WE need..." 

[Doc J]

OK, I'm on phase "buying some parts" until the manifold is ready. These days I red about "adjustable pressure switch" and that I need it. I PM'd Andy for some details (like price and can he send it to Bulgaria), but how the switch really works. I have to remove the current switch to the throttle and to install the adjustable, or it's an upgrade to the current? And how it works - it's sending wrong signals ot the Digifant that the switch is fully opened at any boost or what?

[nikky]

i got one off ebay for £10 and you need a normally open switch,,T off your vacuum to the ps,tap off the ground that goes to the WOT and idle switch and cut the WOT switch wire and run them to the ps get a multimeter to it and set it at 5-6psi while revving it up to pressurise it.thats what i have done anyway and seems to work.insted of the throttle switch/wot as that chucks more fuel in at full trottle and the pressure switch will at 5-6psi so on boost really,hope that helps

[Doc J]

OK, Last night I disassembled the throttle and removed the WOT-switch.



So, cutted the wires (yellow and brown) that goes to the WOT. OK, anyone to show a good place to mount the Pressure switch   I think to mount in the place for WOT and to get a vacuum with T-piece from the map? Any advices?

On the next picture with green round is the place where I think to make a hole where to screw the PS and the place with "6-angle figure", where will stay the PS:

[lance]

if i was you mate id leave the map sensor vac pipe alone and go off another.

[hayesey]

it's a nice idea to put it inside the throttle body like that, if it'll fit.  I might even re-do mine like that!

[Doc J]

Yes, it fits last night I measured and it's like made for this place  but I'll do it this weekend and will post pics to show.

[dub-disaster]

What benifits does this pressure switch mod have?? And how does it work ?? Also what vacuum pipe do you t off from ? And all you need is an adjustable pressure switch? And lastly do I have to change my map as I currently have just the standard ko3 chip from ppp and I see they do a seperate map for this pressure switch setup.